Free baby dress patterns

For girls who are beginning to develop a figure (chest bulge), the upper dart is taken into account in the calculations of the main design of a continuous dress. With appropriate modeling, the dart can be transferred to other parts of the dress or hidden in gathers, folds, under pockets, flaps, etc.

When constructing, the following measurements are used (all dimensions in centimeters):

Basic mesh dress

The drawing begins from a vertical line, on which a segment 1-2 is laid (see figure), equal to the length of the dress, i.e. 85 cm.

1-5 = 34 cm back length.

From point 1, set off the depth of the armhole, which is equal to 1/10 of the chest girth measurement plus 2/10 of the back length measurement, plus 3 cm, i.e. 7.2 + 6.8 + 3 = 17 cm (point 4).

From point 3 downwards, the height of the hips is set aside, which is equal to 1/3 of the measurement of the half-circumference of the hips plus 1 cm, i.e., 12.6 + 1 = 13.6 cm.

Draw horizontal auxiliary lines: from point 1 - the line of lowering the shoulder; from point 4 - armhole depth line; from point 3 - waist line; from point 5 - hip line; from point 2 - the bottom line of the dress.

4-6 = 1/2 measuring half the width of the back, i.e. e. 17 cm.

The width of the back armhole is equal to 1/8 of the half-chest measurement minus 1 cm, i.e. 3.5 cm (segment 6-7).

The width of the front armhole is equal to 1/8 of the half-chest measurement plus 1 cm, i.e. 5.5 cm (segment 7-8).

8-9 = 1/2 half chest measurement (18 cm) minus 2 = 16 cm.

A perpendicular is lowered from point 9. Its intersection with the waist line is point 10. From point 10 through point 9, continue a vertical line on which the length of the front is set equal to the length of the back plus 2 cm, i.e. 34 + 2 = 36 cm (segment 10-11). The marked points are connected and the upper part of the back and front mesh is obtained.

From point 1 to the right, set aside the width of the back neckline, which is equal to 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck plus 1 cm, i.e. 6.1 cm (point 12). From point 12, set off the height of the neck, equal to 1/3 of the segment 1-12, i.e. 2 cm (point 13).

The width of the front neckline is set aside from point 11; it is equal to 1/3 of the neck half-girth measurement plus 0.5 cm, i.e. 5.6 cm (point 14).

The depth of the front neckline is laid off from point 11 on the line of the middle of the front; this is 1/3 of the neck half-girth measurement plus 1 cm, i.e. 6.1 cm (point 15).

From point 3, put 1 cm on the waist line (point 3a). From point 1 through point 3a draw a line from the back to the bottom.

On the base grid made in this way, the main lines of the dress drawing are constructed.

Construct a base mesh. Points 13 and 1 are connected by the back neckline (see figure). From point 16, the length of segment 12-13 is set aside, equal to 2 cm (point 17). Point 13 is connected by an auxiliary shoulder line to point 17 and extended by 2 cm (point 18).

The distance of the dart from the neck line is equal to 1/3 of the shoulder length, i.e. 1/3 (13-18) = 1/3 x 13.5 = 4.5 cm (point 19).

The length of the dart is calculated based on the depth of the armhole (segment 1-4). In this case, the depth of the armhole is 16.8 cm.

The length of the dart is 1/3 (1-4)+0.5 =6.1 cm (point 20). From point 20, 0.5 cm is laid towards the middle of the back (point 21).

19-22 = 1.5 cm - tuck solution.

Segment 17-6 is divided in half (point 23).

From point 7, deepen the armhole by 1 cm (point 7a). From point 18, lower the shoulder line by 0.5 cm (point 18a). Points 18a and 22 are connected.

After constructing the upper part of the back, they begin to construct the upper part of the front. Points 14 and 15 are connected by a neckline line.

From point 14, 4.5 cm is laid off for the length of segment 13-19 (point 24).

From point 9, 1/10 of the chest circumference measurement is laid horizontally, i.e. 7.2 cm (point 25). Points 24 and 25 are connected.

The end of the dart is located at a distance of 2 cm from point 25 (point 26). From point 27, 1/10 of the front length measurement is set aside (front length from point 10 to point 11 is 36 cm), i.e. 3.6 cm (point 28).

Points 14 and 28 are connected by an auxiliary front shoulder line and continue it.

Point 29 is the point of intersection of the shoulder lines and the side of the dart. 29-30 = 1/6 half bust measurement minus 1 = 6 cm dart opening.

Points 30 and 26 are connected - the second side of the dart. After calculating and constructing the dart, the shoulder line is built. The length of the front shoulder is calculated based on the length of the back shoulder minus 0.5 cm. In this case, the length of the back shoulder from point 13 to point 18 is 12 cm, the length of the front shoulder is 0.5 cm shorter, i.e. equal to 11.5 cm.

The segment from point 14 to point 29 is 4.5 s.c. The remaining 7 cm is laid on the auxiliary line of the shoulder from point 30 (point 31). (14-29) + (30-31) = 11.5 cm - front shoulder length.

From point 8, 1/10 of the half-chest measurement is set upward, i.e. 3.6 cm (point 32).

Points 32 and 31 are connected. From point 31, lower the front shoulder line by 1/20 of the half-chest measurement, i.e. by 1.8 cm (point 33).

Points 33, 32 and 7a are connected by an armhole line. From point 34, extend the line of the middle front by 1 cm. For a better fit of the dress, darts are designed at the waist line. Their solution should correspond to the child’s figure (normal, slightly overweight or thin).

Calculation of darts on the back:

17 1 =16 cm waist length in the back drawing.

The waist length in the drawing from point 3a to point 2a is 19.5 cm, which means

19.5 - 16 = 3.5 cm.

3.5/2 = 1.7 cm.

The opening of the side dart is 0.5 cm less than the depth of the dart on the middle line, so the opening of the side dart in this case is 1.2 cm, and the opening of the dart on the middle line is 2.2 cm.

Calculation of front darts:

1/2 of the waist measurement is 31 cm;

31 +3 = 34 cm;

17 + 1.5 = 18.5 cm waist length in front drawing.

The waist circumference in the figure from point 10 to point 35 is 21.5 cm, which means 21.5 - 18.5 = 3 cm.

The side dart opening is also reduced by 0.5 cm, and the front dart opening is increased. In this case, the opening of the side dart is 1 cm, and the dart on the middle line is 2 cm.

From the point of intersection of the waist lines and the side line (point 35), 0.5 cm is laid upward (point 34).

From point 3a, 1/10 of the waist measurement is set aside, i.e. 62 cm (point 37). From point 37, the calculated tuck solution is set aside - 2.2 cm (point 38).

Segment 37-38 is divided in half (point 39).

A vertical auxiliary line is drawn through point 39 until it intersects with line 4-6 at point 40 and with the line from point 5 at point 42.

From point 40, 4 cm are laid down (point 41).

From point 42 upward, 3.8 cm is set aside (point 43) (this is 1/10 of the hip circumference measurement).

On the high waist line from point 36, the calculated solution for the side back dart is set aside, equal to 1.2 cm (point 44).

Points 44 and 7a are connected.

The side front dart is 1 cm smaller than the side dart, and its opening is 1 cm (point 45).

Points 45 and 7a are connected.

From point 46, set aside 1/10 of the hip circumference measurement plus 0.5 cm, i.e. 8.1 cm (point 47).

Points 26 and 47 are connected.

The point of intersection with the waist line is 48. The dart opening is 2 cm.

From point 48, 1 cm is laid in both directions (points 49 and 50). From point 26, 6 cm are laid down (point 51).

From point 47 upwards, 4.8 cm is set aside (point 52) ​​(this is 1/10 of the hip circumference measurement plus 1 cm).

Segment 5a-46 must be checked against the hip circumference measurement, adding 2 cm. If there is a difference between the length of the construction line and the hip circumference measurement (usually for plump girls), a recalculation is made so that the dress does not turn out to be too narrow.

Add 2 cm to the hip circumference measurement, i.e. 38+2=40 cm.

20 1 cm =19 cm.

19 cm are laid off from point 5a (point 53).

Points 53 and 44 are connected.

On the bottom line, mark the length of the segment 5a-53 plus 3 cm from point 2a, i.e. 22 cm (point 54). Points 54 and 53 are connected by a side line.

Front hip circumference is calculated as follows:

1/2 of the hip measurement is 38 cm;

20 + 1.5 = 21.5 cm.

21.5 cm are laid off from point 46 (point 55).

In this design, point 55 coincides with point 53. Since another option is possible, we will place point 55 at some distance from point 53.

On the bottom line from point 34, mark the length of the segment 46-55 plus 3 cm. i.e. 24.5 cm (point 56). At right angles to line 2a-1, draw the bottom line of the back.

From the hip line, the lateral lines of the front and back are aligned and the line of the lower cut is drawn.

Every girl at least once in her life dreams, just like the heroine of her favorite fairy tale “Cinderella,” to be at a real ball. And not only to appear, but also to look like a fairy-tale princess at this ball: in a beautiful dress, with an intricate hairstyle, elegant shoes, and light makeup. And even if your fashionista can only wear this dress once, still give your child a fairy tale, and your princess will remember such a miracle transformation for a long time. Our dress pattern for girls will help you turn your beauty not only into a princess. By changing the length of the skirt, the color of the fabric and its texture, it can easily be transformed into an airy snowflake, a mysterious flower fairy, and even a Spanish gypsy beauty. Fluffy multi-layered skirts will help you create both an airy tutu and an exquisite ballet Chopin dress. This basic pattern will help you create completely different looks.

Show a little more imagination with ruffles, rhinestones, and bows. Add elbow-length gloves, a miniature clutch bag, and make a tiara.

Patterns replaced (July 2016)

You can download a dress pattern for a girl for free using the following links:

* As a result of payment, you will automatically be sent a file with a pattern to the email you specified. If the file has not arrived, you need to check whether you entered the correct postal address when paying. If the postal address is correct, but the file has not arrived, you must immediately contact the address [email protected]

Patterns are given without seam allowances

The composition of the pattern set:

note The skirt consists of several layers. The bottom one is fabric that holds its shape, the top ones are soft organza or chiffon.

A variety of dress fabrics at an affordable price can be purchased in the VITEX online store.

Below is a description of sewing an elegant christening dress from one of our readers.

I originally planned to make a beautiful dress for my niece that she could wear to her christening and a couple of other holidays. I liked this model for its simplicity and the ability to choose a pattern for the desired size. My niece has already slightly outgrown 92, but does not reach 98 cm (the girl is 2.5 years old). I decided to sew a little longer and chose a 98 cm pattern. As it turned out later, I did the right thing, because it fit with difficulty. I printed and cut out the patterns, for sewing I chose white chintz as the main fabric and lace as the additional upper tier of the skirt. I bought 2.5 meters of lace braid, three flower bows and 2 meters of thin braid with rhinestones. Although the pattern came with sleeves and I even cut them out, I did not sew them in. I decided that this dress would look nicer without them. I made double patterns for the body up to the waist so that the chintz would not show through and would look neater. Then I sewed all the details in them, I got patterns up to the waist in two copies. I sewed the necklines, head slits and turned the product right side out. After that, I stitched from the front side of the armhole, first folding the ends and running thin lace along the seams so that they were not noticeable. The top of the product was almost ready. I would like to note that I cut exactly according to the patterns at 98 cm, and did not make additional seam allowances. And then, when the dress was ready, it fit snugly. Therefore, if you are sewing exactly to your size, then add additional allowances so that the girl fits well. You can also slightly enlarge the neckline, sew a zipper at the back, or add small buttons. In order for the child’s head to pass through without problems, it is necessary that the two halves of the back are sewn together only at the very bottom and leave a deep cut. I got a little stuck on this and had to embroider it twice, making more.
Afterwards, I started cutting out the bottom, only I decided to make the top lace layer of the skirt more fluffy and therefore did not cut it like the bottom one, but simply gathered it together and stitched it in place. I cut the bottom layer exactly according to the finished pattern. It turned out very elegant and the length was just right. I trimmed the bottom of the top lace layer with rhinestone braid. So that the threads would not be conspicuous, I sharpened them with a very thin fishing line. It was transparent and unnoticeable. I trimmed the bottom layer of the dress with lace. Then I connected the top and bottom of the dress from the inside out and machined all the edges. I wanted the bottom of the dress to somehow sparkle - for this I lightly grabbed it in an accordion and lifted the ends of the skirt in front on both sides. I sewed a white flower into the gripping areas and another one on the left chest. To make the dress look even more elegant, I bought a very wide transparent mesh ribbon with large flowers embroidered with white braid. I sewed it at the waist to the outside of the dress using hand stitches with clear thin fishing line. Due to its large size, it turned out that the top of the braid was under the bust, and the bottom went over the lace skirt. But it looked good. On the back of the slit I sewed a small button and made an air loop from white threads. But since, as I already wrote, the cut had to be lengthened, at least three buttons were needed. I finished them off later. This is where my work with the dress ended - it turned out very airy and beautiful.

Do you want to make an elegant dress for a girl with your own hands? It can be sewn or knitted or crocheted. The article contains simple options that even a beginner can handle. Choose models, read comments. Make outfits for your little fashionista.

Benefits of DIY

Does your princess like to twirl in front of the mirror? Does she like to wear beautiful and original things? Please your daughter with a gift of your own making. You can sew or knit an elegant dress for a girl with your own hands. Both options have the following advantages compared to buying a ready-made item:

• made exactly to size;
• have an individual design (your daughter will not end up wearing the same outfit as another girl);
• you both like, since the model was chosen jointly from pictures and tried on during the creation process.

Methods of making dresses: which one to choose

If we compare the two manufacturing methods, sewing an outfit has several advantages over knitting. They are as follows:

• requires less time;
• allows you to get a beautiful thing using a simple pattern using expensive and effective material;
• you can predict in advance how the product will look on the girl by attaching the fabric to the figure or even wrapping the child in the material;
• allows you to create a spectacular one in the form of a ballroom or evening version.

If you want to make something light and beautiful complete with a bucket hat and handbag, and also have the patience to count stitches and patterns, feel free to choose the crochet method.

Tools and materials

When you have decided on the method of making a thing, start looking for a specific model and buy everything you need to create it. In the case of crochet, you will need the tool itself, yarn and a pattern. For sewing you need much more than anything:

• pattern;
• fabric for dress;
• material for a petticoat, such as tulle (required for a full version);
• regilin and corset tape to stiffen the seams and bottom;
• pins;
• tailor's chalk;
• scissors;
• needle and thread;
• sewing machine.

The list can be larger or smaller, because children's dresses for girls, elegant or casual, are sewn in different ways. Schemes and technologies are used from the simplest in the form of one-piece models to the very complex.

Decoration methods

You can sew an elegant dress for a girl with your own hands using the most

Beauty will be created by the material from which the item is made and the decor. The product can be supplemented with the following details:

• frills on the skirt or top;

• fabric flowers;
• lace;
• original belt;
• bows;
• beads and beads;
• decorations made of satin ribbons.

A set with a handbag and a headband or hair clip made of the same fabric will look stylish and original.

How to sew an elegant dress for a girl with your own hands?

Regardless of what model you make, the general scheme of work is as follows:

In each specific model, there may be other specific steps, for example, making a petticoat, attaching a regillin or corset tape, making darts, frills.

How to take measurements?

Children's dresses for girls, both formal and casual, are sewn in accordance with the size of a particular child. This is the advantage of custom manufacturing. The main thing is to correctly determine all the values ​​​​by which you will build a pattern or adjust the finished template.

So, you will need to know:

• breast size;
• waist;
• hip girth;
• the height of the dress from the shoulder line to the desired length (to the floor, below the knee, etc.)

Using these parameters, you can easily build a simple template pattern, which can then be improved in accordance with the chosen model.

How to make frills?

Elegant dresses for girls (photos below) are made using simple patterns.

Their beauty lies in the use of a large number of ruffles, both to finish the bottom edge and to form the skirt itself.

It is not difficult to make such decor. The work flow will be as follows:

How to sew a fluffy dress?

The frills, which were discussed in the previous section, create relief, decoration and at the same time give volume to the dress.

However, making many layers of ruffles will require a lot of time and patience. There is another option on how to make an elegant dress for a girl.

Lush and at the same time airy, it will look spectacular on any figure.

To create such a model, you will need the following:

1. Make a specific pattern for the skirt.
2. Sew a petticoat, preferably with regilin.

As for the template, you can also take one ready-made or build it yourself. The picture below shows a pattern where the front piece is made as one piece. In this case, the skirt will have a slight gather.

The second method of making a lush hem

To get a wavy surface, you will have to cut out the corresponding part, which is called a circle skirt.

The direction is indicated on the workpiece. It is not difficult to build such a template to your own size. This can be done using a stick with a thread tied at the upper end with a writing instrument (pencil for paper, chalk for fabric).

The paper template is applied to the fold line. The part is cut on the bias. As a result, you should get a circle with an internal hole with a diameter corresponding to the waist line.

The petticoat can be made according to the same pattern or a different one. As you can see in the diagram above, fluffy elegant long dresses for girls can be made from several additional layers of petticoats. They are connected to each other and to the base. If, for example, tulle is used for them, the outer layer can be made of a different material or the same.

To obtain a shape-holding edge, regilin is used. It stiffens the seams and allows you to get beautiful waves at the hem. You can process the edges but the effect will be slightly different.

How to choose the right model?

So, you have seen how different elegant dresses can be. For teenage girls, they can be either curvy, with frills, or straight. It is important here that the style fits the figure and pleases the schoolgirl herself. For thin people, any options are suitable; for plump people, it is better to choose ones that make wide hips invisible and do not focus attention on the waist. Any options are suitable for little girls.

When planning to sew with your own hands, weigh your child’s wishes against your experience and capabilities. If you are new to this business, take the simplest patterns. It is better to use additional decor. It's always easier to do it. And also do not forget that there is another equally interesting alternative to tailoring - elegant ones for girls. They may not be suitable for a graduation or some too solemn official event, but they will be just right for a family celebration, a visit or a summer party on the street.

Crochet dress for girls

Whole sets look very cute and beautiful when panama hats and handbags are made from the same yarn.

The summer dress with straps is made of two parts. Knitting patterns for each are shown below.

After both product blanks are completed, you need to combine them into one.

An elegant crocheted dress for a girl can be crocheted according to the second pattern, which is shown below.

This option even includes different methods of decorating the neckline. The manufacturing technology is the same as in the previous case. Here are diagrams of the front and back parts. They are knitted in two parts, for which you can use yarn of different shades. It will look more interesting and impressive.

As a result, you will get a product like the one in the next photo.

You have seen many ideas and ways to make an elegant dress for a girl with your own hands. Choose the model you like, sew, knit. Delight your princess with new outfits.

Good day everyone!
It's been a long time since anything childish has been sewn..... It happened.

Dress for a girl's 10th birthday. Dense build, tummy and butt, everything is present))) Initial stage of development. OG 80, From 74, OB 88. The size range is no longer for children by age. They still want to wear the dress in the summer and on holidays.
I'll show you how I worked with the pattern. The information is more for beginners, but it will help them. The pattern was taken from a set of Soviet patterns for girls from 1985. There are good increases in freedom from 6cm. I took size 38. I reduced the pattern in height and reduced the width of the back. I outlined the drapery lines for the belt and neckline. I transferred the side dart on the bust line to the thallium one, then transferred it to the bodice by making two parts of the bodice (we need to grow). I put tracing paper on top of the main pattern and transfer the new pattern with changes. I left the belt slightly arched, good for the tummy.

Same with the back. Stooped back, arched back, barrels - that’s why the lines are slightly convex.

I altered the finished patterns, and after thinking I decided to raise the armhole. I made these adjustments when cutting, I made new patterns for the lining, so I show the changes with lines.

Drapery

I basted a piece of material with threads on both sides, pulled it into a gather, laid the drapery as it lay beautifully and secured it to a calico base. First, I secured it with needles, then I delayed the finished version just above the stitching line, securing the base with the drapery. I sewed the seams with a goat to the base.

Wrong side