Step-by-step instructions for sewing a skirt. Pattern of a pencil skirt and creation of original skirt models based on it. Draw a dart on the back half

Sewing almost any skirt begins with constructing a base pattern. The exception is skirts with a wide silhouette - sun, half-sun, elasticated skirt, etc.

ADVICE! If you have a standard size, you can use the ready-made skirt pattern prepared by us by downloading it from this page:

Skirt pattern - construction

Rice. 1. Pattern-basis of a straight skirt with six darts

Taking measurements

ADVICE! Take measurements for underwear or shapewear, depending on what you plan to wear your skirt with.

To draw a pattern drawing for the base of a straight skirt (Fig. 1), you need to take the following measurements:
1. Skirt length………………………72 cm
2. Waist semicircle………..36 cm
3. Semi-circle of hips……… 50 cm

Skirt pattern - description of construction

Draw a rectangle ABCD.

Skirt width. The lines of the rectangle AB and DC are equal to 51 cm (the semicircle of the hips according to the measurement plus 1 cm for all sizes): 50 + 1 = 51 cm.
Skirt length. The lines of the rectangle AD and BC are equal to 72 cm (the length of the skirt as measured).
Side line. From point A, 1/2 of the segment AB is laid off to the right and a point T is placed. From point T, a perpendicular is lowered down until it intersects with the line DC.

Hip line. From points A, T, B, lay down 20-22 centimeters, put points L, L1 and L2 and connect them with a dotted line.

Calculation of the depth of darts at the waist line. Determine the difference between the semi-circumference of the hips according to the measurement (together with the increase) and the semi-circumference of the waist according to the measurement with an increase of 1 cm: 51 - 37 = 14.
The difference is 14 centimeters. 7 centimeters (half the difference) are removed into the side dart, 3 centimeters into the front dart, and 4 centimeters into the back dart (the remainder of the difference).

Side dart of the skirt. The side dart is 7 centimeters. From point T, 3.5 centimeters are set aside to the right and left (half the depth of the side dart): 7: 2 = 3.5.
From points 3.5 upwards, 1 centimeter is laid down. Points 1 are connected by dotted lines to point L1, divided in half, and 0.5 centimeters are set aside from the division points left to the right and right to the left. The line on the left is drawn through points 1, 0.5, L1, the line on the right is drawn through points 1, 0.5, L1.

Front dart of the skirt. The depth of the front dart is 3 centimeters. From the side line to the right, set aside 5-6 cm, draw a perpendicular down, the length of the front dart is 9-10 cm. From the point of intersection of the perpendicular with the waist line, set aside 1.5 centimeters to the right and left (half the depth of the front dart) 3: 2 = 1, 5. The lower end of the dart is moved 0.5 cm to the side seam.

Back dart. The depth of the back dart is 4 centimeters. The AT is divided in half and 2 centimeters are set aside from the division point to the left and to the right.
The length of the back dart is 12-13 cm.

Waistline of the back half of the skirt. Point 1 is connected to point 2 (darts).
Waist line of the front half of the skirt. Point 1 is connected to point 1.5 (darts).

Note. If the difference between the semi-circumference of the hips according to the measurement with an increase and the semi-circumference of the waist according to the measurement with an increase is more than 14 cm, 2 darts are made on the back half of the skirt. The first is placed at a distance of 5-7 cm from the middle of the back, the tuck opening is 3-4 cm, the length is 13-15 cm. The remaining distance is divided in half, the second tuck opening is 2-3 cm, the length is 12-13 cm.

Constructing the back half of a skirt with four darts

If the difference between the half-hip circumference and the half-waist circumference is significantly more than 14 cm, 2 darts are made on the back half of the skirt.

The first dart is placed at a distance of 5-6 cm from the middle back line, 3-4 cm deep and 13-15 cm long. Draw a perpendicular to the hip line and build a dart as shown in the figure, slightly rounding both sides.

The location of the second dart is defined as the center point between the right side of the first dart and the side seam. The depth of the second dart is 2-3 cm, length 11-12 cm. Draw a perpendicular to the hip line and build a dart, as shown in Figure 2, also slightly rounding both sides.

Rice. 2. Pattern of the back half of the skirt with four darts

Subgluteal dart: what is it for and how to build it

To further emphasize the convexity of the buttocks, a pencil skirt is sometimes additionally made with a subgluteal dart in the middle seam of the back half. Firstly, she perfectly draws the silhouette, giving it a more distinctly feminine shape. And secondly, such a dart will not at all affect the volume of the skirt in the hip area. If the product has a slot, you can model it and be sure that it will not diverge.

Set aside 5-8 cm from the hip line (depending on the shape of the buttocks) and draw a dart 1-2 cm deep to the bottom line of the back half of the skirt.

Rice. 3. Pattern of a skirt with a buttock dart

If your size matches the standard size, we offer

How to create the perfect straight skirt pattern for a non-standard figure? And in general, what is this - an ideal pattern?

This is a pattern that you can use to sew a skirt without trying on or adjusting. It fits perfectly on a woman's figure, it has vertical side seams, correct balance, a tight fit at the waist and hips without creases or distortions. The bottom of the skirt is flat, parallel to the floor.

What can guarantee the construction of such a pattern?

Obviously, only an individual pattern, constructed according to the correct methodology and based on accurate body measurements, guarantees a perfect fit, since it takes into account all the features of a woman’s physique.

And now the question. Why doesn't a commonly used design method give a perfect fit for a skirt, even if all the measurements were taken correctly?

You all know very well that women with a non-standard figure often simply cannot buy clothes in stores because they do not fit well on their figure. And they are forced to sew their own clothes to order.

But, unfortunately, when they contact the studio, the situation does not improve much. Adjustments to sewn clothes occur during fittings. The shoulder seam is ripped open and re-pinned. And all of us who sew clothes know that this is how the balance is adjusted.

But this is one of the main, main measures! That is, initially, when cutting, balance measurements were not taken into account, although measurements of the length of the front and back are always taken! Why?

Because standard patterns were used. The same ones used to sew products at the factory.

If you go into the interior of the studio, you will certainly see that on the walls, on nails, there are a huge number of patterns and patterns for all sizes and cuts.

The cutter, having briefly reviewed the basic measurements of a woman’s figure, selects from the standard patterns those that are closest to her in parameters and cuts the product according to standard patterns, and tries to make all the necessary adjustments during the fitting.

Unfortunately, this approach is wrong. The more a specific figure differs from the typical, standard one, the more defects in the fit result. Not all fit defects can be corrected by pinching the fabric during fitting. As a result, they remain in the finished product.

Those women whose figure is close to standard or the clothes ordered do not have a very fitted silhouette are in luck! They are much more likely to get clothes that they will be happy with and that they will wear, rather than hang them in the closet and regret the money they spent.

So what to do with those who have a non-standard figure? Create a custom pattern!

And then a strange situation happens. You yourself honestly create an individual pattern according to correctly taken measurements, but when you try it on, you are surprised to see that the fit of the product leaves much to be desired.

How so? Why is this happening? Believe me, I myself have encountered this more than once and wondered, what’s the matter? When, where and what did I make a mistake? I measured my figure incorrectly - this is probably most likely!

Moreover, during measurements, posture and dimensions change, the stomach tightens, the shoulders straighten... And there are no clearly defined points on the body, the distance between which we measure. Therefore, the one who makes the patterns himself takes the measurements correctly!

Since I studied design from textbooks for technical schools and universities, then, of course, the authority of these professional publications was very high for me, and I looked for errors in my actions, but not in the design methods that are prescribed in the books.

When the situation with imperfectly fitting skirts repeated itself several times, and I no longer had any doubt that I did everything correctly, I stopped blaming myself. I wanted to figure it out and understand what needs to be changed in the construction of the pattern in order to achieve a perfect fit of the skirt on any non-standard figure.

One day, looking at a woman’s figure in a side profile, I understand that the standard construction of a straight skirt pattern, according to which I drew it, does not at all correspond to the woman’s physique that I see.

And this difference was critical! They rightly say that a crisis, conflict, problem is always a point of growth!

A person thinks about a problem and, trying to solve it, looks for the reasons for its occurrence and gets to the bottom of things, understands what the root of the problem is. And at some point insight happens! Insight!

A dimensional attribute (measurement) is the size of the measured part of a figure, which does not say anything about the curvature of the surface of the measured area and how this area is oriented in space relative to others.

And the relationship between the different parts of the female figure, their proportions are extremely varied.

The weak link of the proportional-calculation design method is that initially this system is based on the correlation and proportionality of the human figure. But such a correlation, proportionality, simply does not exist in nature. In nature, we are all very different.

In life we ​​observe that there is no interdependence between dimensional characteristics. With the same height, a person can be very plump and very thin.

An example from life. A child going to school may have the chest and waist circumferences of a young man. It is clear that it is impossible for such a child to buy clothes for school in a store. Only sew to order. I myself sewed for such children, and therefore I know about this first-hand.

Those methods of constructing drawings of clothing details that operate on a small number of dimensional characteristics of the body are good for loose-shaped clothing, and are not at all suitable for clothing that has a tight fit on the figure.

Look at these pictures. With the same ratio of waist and hip circumference, women's figures are not the same in the relative positions of the main points. They have different curves, bulges and depressions. A skirt made for these two non-standard figures using the generally accepted method will fit equally poorly on both figures.

What conclusion does this suggest?

Most people have posture, proportions and such an individual ratio of dimensional characteristics that, when putting on mass-produced clothes, they notice various design defects in the clothes (balance is disturbed, creases and folds appear). Clothing does not match the size, shape and volume of the human body.

A standard pattern will not help us in such cases. And its adjustment will not save us. Moreover, even if you build an individual pattern from scratch according to precisely taken measurements, but do not add projection measurements to them (namely, they give an idea of ​​​​the spatial shape and relief of the body), then the skirt will have a poor fit on the figure.

Projection measurements are key, since they provide an understanding of a woman’s physique.

It's no secret that every tailor has his own design methods, cutting and sewing secrets. Own kitchen. Just like every housewife has her own signature dishes, which always turn out great!

For me, this is sewing a straight skirt with a perfect fit on the most non-standard figure. And now I’ll tell you what tools I use to measure your figure, how I make calculations and how I create the perfect skirt pattern.

The method ensures high accuracy in constructing the basis of the design and does not require fittings to refine and modify the resulting pattern.

Ensures comfortable, confident sewing without unpleasant or unexpected surprises. Which is an extremely important point when sewing clothes remotely to order. And high quality service means the customer’s joy, respect and trust in the master, the growth of his reputation and the inclusion of word of mouth.

Practice without theory is blind, so for your complete understanding of this topic, I will start with the theoretical part. From the way I understand and visualize the very essence of the task, what comes from where and why it is done this way and not some other way.

And drawing skills will help us with this.

Drawing is a way of learning and knowing. This is not superficial drawing, not copying the outlines of objects on a sheet of paper, but construction.

An artist, when drawing some complex form from life, never confines himself only to the external, visible part. He doesn’t just draw lines, he studies, analyzes, thinks, understands and, based on understanding, “builds” a drawing, conveying with light strokes already at the very first stage of the drawing all the design features, proportions and relative positions of the main parts of the depicted object.

The artist does this schematically, using axes and reference points, auxiliary constructions, drawing a “transparent” structure and such a method as “chipping”.

“Cutting” is a generalized transfer of the volumetric shape of an object in the form of a combination of simple geometric bodies.

So we, studying and analyzing the figure of a woman, will geometricize it, looking for similarities with those geometric bodies with which she can be associated.

In general, a straight skirt can be imagined as a combination of two geometric bodies. Cylinder and inclined truncated cone.

Let's analyze this design of two bodies based on end-to-end drawing and additional constructions in order to determine the ratios and relationships that we need so much, without understanding and reflecting them in the design of the skirt, fit defects arise.

A perfectly fitting skirt has a strictly vertical side seam. This is a fundamentally important point.

To find the location of the side seam, consider this figure when the bulge of the abdomen is zero. This can be the case both when the stomach is flat and when the stomach is convex, but in both cases the projection dimension of the convexity of the abdomen is zero.

You can see this in the picture. Vzh=0.

In the diagram in this case, in a lateral projection it looks like this.

Two tangent vertical planes, one of which is in contact with the protrusion of the abdomen, and the other with the protrusion of the buttocks, are located parallel to each other. Parallelism of vertical planes is a very important, absolutely necessary condition when constructing a structure in order to obtain a straight vertical side seam in the product.

In existing methods, when constructing a basic base, three options for the location of the side seam are offered:

1. Strictly in the middle between the back and front halves of the skirt;

2. The side seam moves 1 cm towards the back half of the skirt;

3. The side seam moves 1 cm towards the front half.

In fact, the side seam of a straight skirt always shifts towards the middle of the front half of the skirt and is calculated as the difference between two projection measurements: Vya - Vzh. And this shift is purely individual for each figure.

Now we look at the diagram and figure out how we can determine the distance by which we reduce the width of the front half of the skirt and, accordingly, how much the width of the rear part will increase.

In the next master class, in the video, I will show this point very clearly.

The four arcs of the waist circumference should be equal to each other, and this is also fundamentally important to take into account when constructing a skirt pattern and calculating waist darts. Especially when constructing a side dart. But more on this a little later, when I will tell you how to make a preliminary calculation before constructing a skirt pattern on graph paper.

In the meantime, I’ll tell you what you need to have to remove dimensional characteristics from a figure:

1. Elastic waist. It is necessary to place it at a natural level. As a rule, a non-standard figure has a waist that is not horizontal to the floor.
2. Centimeter tape. When measuring your waist, place two fingers under the tape and move it from right to left, while simultaneously asking the customer about the most comfortable position for the tape, which should not dig into her body, but also not give excessive slack. You should feel this correct waist size with your own hands. But it doesn’t hurt to check with the customer either. It is possible that she will prefer to have a tight belt in her skirt or, conversely, insert a partial elastic band if her weight fluctuates. This also happens. And it is the waist that reacts primarily to weight gain.
3. A special belt with 3 movable measuring tapes that move freely along the belt and one stitched onto the belt. This device is necessary to determine the distance from the natural waistline to the floor from the front, side and back.

4. Construction level, on the long side of which make markings in centimeters.

5. Metal ruler.
6. A sheet of thick cardboard measuring approximately 30 cm by 150 cm.

When measuring the circumference of the hips, it is absolutely necessary to somehow wrap the hips with a non-sinking, non-sag surface, and thick cardboard is perfect for this purpose. Cardboard is a great way to correctly measure your hip circumference. In this case, it is fundamentally important that when measuring, the upper and lower edges of the cardboard overlap with each other, forming a cylinder. If you want a tight fit on your skirt, pull the edges of the cardboard tighter, as if you were tightening a belt. You will get a really snug fit in the finished skirt. In this case, the soft tissues will tighten, as if they are compressed, but will not go anywhere, will remain in their place and the resulting measurement will be the minimum possible. When using knitted fabrics, this will make it possible to show beautiful shapes. The “oblipka” exists to demonstrate the beautiful forms of a woman.

Correctly measure the circumference of the waist and hips using a sheet of cardboard for the hips. Using a specially made tape, measure the length from the waist to the floor from the front, side and back. It is important not to get into the hollow between the buttocks. If necessary, place a sheet of paper. It will help you create the correct curve of the buttock line and, accordingly, you will be able to accurately measure the length at the back.

To determine the desired length of a skirt, standing in front of a mirror, you need to attach a piece of thick fabric to your legs and, moving it down and up, find the optimal distance from the floor to the edge of the fabric. One in which the legs will be presented in the most advantageous way.

The length of the skirt is determined at the measuring stage. Since posture and proportions change when shoes have a heel, then when taking measurements it will be correct if the customer puts on the shoes that she wears. With or without heels.

We take projection measurements, using a building level, from the front, side and back, at the same time recording the height of the projection from the waist to the bulge of the abdomen, hips and buttocks. All projection measurements work in pairs.

In the next master class we will do preliminary calculations using the measurements by which we will construct a skirt pattern.

Statistics show that most women do not start sewing because of the need to create basic patterns. This is the very stumbling block over which intentions are broken and which causes complexity. Some people think that creating a pattern requires a lot of time, others think that this is generally incomprehensible knowledge, which can only be understood by a select few. We intend to dispel all your doubts and give you a step-by-step construction of basic patterns: skirt, dress, jacket, coat and trousers. By following our instructions, step by step, you can easily create any pattern.

Let's start with the simplest thing - step-by-step construction of a straight skirt pattern.

To create a skirt pattern, you need to take measurements:

Skirt length (DYu)………………………72 cm

Waist circumference (FROM)………..72 cm

Hip circumference (H) ……… 100 cm

Step 1-2:

In the upper left corner on graph paper (5 cm away from the top), place point A. Down the vertical line, mark the length of the skirt according to the measurement - AD. To the right - 1/2 of the hip circumference according to the measurement +1cm=100/2+1=51cm - point B. Draw segments DC and BC.

Skirt side line. Divide the segment DC in half, from the division point raise the perpendicular upward to the segment AB.

Step 3-4:

Hip line. From point A, set down 20-22cm - AL = hip length according to measurement. Draw a horizontal line from the resulting point. We received points L1 and L2.

Calculation of darts. Darts are calculated using the formula: (Hip circumference minus waist circumference)/2 = (100-72)/2=14cm. Of these 14 cm, we remove half into the side darts (14/2 = 7 cm) - 3.5 cm in each. From the side line, draw 2 straight segments to points 3.5, extending each one 1 cm upward.

Step 5-6:

Using the dot pattern, connect point A to point 1 (this is the point that was obtained after raising the side lily by 1 cm) and point 1 (another) to point B using slightly curved lines. Divide LL2 in half and from the division point raise the perpendicular to the segment AB. From point B1, move to the right along the red line - 5-6 cm (for all sizes), lower the perpendicular down to the hip line.

Step 7-8:

Final calculation of darts: distribute the remaining excess fabric at the waist (7cm) into the darts of the back and front halves of the skirt - a little more in the back half and a little less in the front, 4 and 3 cm, respectively. The length of the dart on the back half of the skirt is 12-13cm. The length of the dart on the front half of the skirt is 9-10cm. Move the dart to the left 0.5 cm (for beauty).

When constructing the drawing, a unified methodology for constructing clothing from the Central Scientific Research Institute of Shipping was used.

Initial data

To construct a drawing of the base of a straight skirt, the following measurements and additions are necessary:

S t- half waist circumference;

C b- semi-circumference of the hips;

D ts- back length to waist;

D TB- distance from waist to hips (for low hips);

D joint- distance from the waist line to the floor in front;

D Sat- distance from the waist line to the floor on the side;

D NW- distance from the waist line to the floor at the back;

D yu- skirt length;

P t- increase in waist circumference;

P b- increase in hip circumference;

In addition, we find the level of the lower edge of the skirt. For this from the measure D Sat subtract the length of the skirt D yu. Subtract the resulting value from the measurements D joint And D NW, we obtain, accordingly, the measures D usp(front length of skirt) and D yusz(back length of skirt).

Constructing a basic drawing grid

The construction of a basic drawing begins with the construction of a basic mesh.

The size of the base mesh corresponds to the dimensions of the side surface of the skirt from the middle back to the middle front line.

We build a right angle with the vertex at point T. Down from it we put the length of the skirt at the back vertically D yusz. We get point H.

Determine the line of the hips. The hip line for a skirt is usually 18-20 cm down from the waist line, with a smaller value for short figures, and a larger value for tall figures.

TB = 0.5 * D ts - 2

TB = D TB.

For figures with low hips we use the measurement D TB.

We plot the TB value vertically down from point T and set point B.

Through points T and B to the right we draw horizontal lines - the waist line and the hip line, respectively.

Skirt width at hips: BB 1 = C b + P b. We lay this segment horizontally to the right of point B.

The position of the lateral line is determined by the segment BB 2, which is laid horizontally to the right of point B:

BB 2 = ( C b + P b)/2 - 1.

The position of the back and front darts is determined by the segments BB 3 and B 1 B 4:

BB 3 = 0.4 * BB 2;

B 1 B 4 = 0.4 * B 1 B 2.

Segment BB 3 is laid horizontally to the right of point B. Segment B 1 B 4 is laid horizontally to the left of point B 1.

Through points B 3, B 2, B 4, B 1, vertical lines are drawn up until they intersect with the waist line at points T 3, T 2, T 4 and T 1.

The verticals through points B 1 and B 2 continue down until they intersect with the horizontal at points H 1 and H 2.

Calculation and construction of the base drawing

(To view an enlarged drawing in a separate window, click on the drawing with the mouse).

First of all, let’s clarify the position of the waist line by determining the location of points T 20 and T 10.

From point H 2 vertically upward we set aside the measurement D yu. We set point T 20. From point H 1 vertically upward we lay down the measurement D usp. We put point T 10.

We connect points T, T 20, T 10 with straight lines. This broken line is the refined waist line.

We extend the verticals of the back and front darts upward until they intersect with the refined waist line at points T 30 and T 40.

We determine the total solution of darts along the waist line.

∑ darts = ( C b + P b) - (S t + P t).

The direction of the darts, their size and quantity depend on the physique and characteristics of the customer’s figure. For typical figures, it is customary to design three darts: back, side and front.

In this construction we will focus on a typical figure.

The side dart is placed on the side line. In general, the value of ∑ darts is distributed as follows: rear dart solution 0.35 ∑ darts, front dart solution 0.15 ∑ darts, side dart solution 0.5 ∑ darts.

To construct the sides of the darts along the waistline from points T 30, T 40 and T 20, we set aside half the solution of the rear, front and side darts to the right and left, respectively. Length of darts: back 15-17 cm, front 10-12 cm, side 17-20. If we are building a skirt with side seams, then the top of the side dart should lie on the hip line and coincide with point B 2. We set the length of the darts from points T 30, T 40 and T 20 down vertically.

Align the sides of the darts with the larger side. We design the side dart with smooth lines, the back and front with straight lines. We design the waist line with a smooth curve with closed darts.

If we expand the straight skirt somewhat along the bottom line, then we draw the side line from the vertical to the right and left from point B 2 to points H 21 and H 22.

H 2 H 21 = H 2 H 22 = 1 - 6 cm.

The lower end of the dart, point B 2, is connected to points H 21 and H 22.

If a straight skirt is designed with a seam or fold in the middle, then draw the line of the middle of the rear panel through points B and T 0 in a straight line until it intersects with the bottom line at point H 0, and draw the line of the middle of the front panel through points T 11 and B 1 in a straight line to intersection with the bottom line at point H 10:

TT 0 = T 10 T 11 = 0.5 - 1 cm.

In this case, we equalize the length of the lines:

B 1 N 1 = B 1 N 10.

This is necessary so that the slot or fold in the finished product does not diverge. It is clear that if the skirt has, for example, only a slot in the middle of the back panel, and the front panel is cut out in one piece, the above indentations should be made only in the middle of the back panel of the skirt.

We design the bottom line with smooth curves. We draw a clear line around the contours of the back and front panels of the skirt.

To see calculation example to construct a drawing of a straight skirt, and also - get a quote based on your own measurements.

In preparing this article, materials from the book “Designing Clothing” by the authors E.K. Amirov, O.V. Sakulin, B.S. Sakulin, A.T. were used. Trukhanova, Moscow, Publishing Center "Academy", 2006.

STRAIGHT SKIRT

This topic is for those who want to learn how to cut and sew a simple straight skirt with a slit in the back for themselves or their girlfriend. The construction of the pattern, cutting of the product and assembly of the product are described in detail here, both for beginners and for those who know how to sew, but some questions arose during work.

The measurements are given for a specific figure as an example, you substitute your measurement numbers and follow the described scheme for yourself.

In this topic you will find some tips that you will need while working. If you have questions or suggestions, ask so that you can edit this topic in more detail.

Taking measurements.

We begin taking measurements by marking approximate points and lines on the figure.

We fix the waist line with a thin braid, which we place strictly horizontally. Since the drawings are made for half the figure (when cutting, the pattern is placed on the fabric folded in half), measurements of girth (except for the arm girth) and width are also recorded in half size.

Waist circumference (From). Place the tape horizontally around the body along the waist line.
Hip circumference (About). Apply the tape to the buttock points. It runs horizontally around the body, in front along the protrusion of the abdomen and hips, and closes on the right side of the body.

Skirt length (Length). We measure from the waist line to the side.

Measurements:

Total: 1/2: 1/4

Waist circumference (From) – 70 cm: 35 cm: 17.5 cm

Hip circumference (Ob) – 96 cm: 48 cm: 24 cm

Skirt length (Length) – 50 cm

Additional data: total: 1/2

Freedom of fit at the hips (SO) – 4 cm: 2 cm

Pattern.

We draw a basic skirt pattern without a loose fit and without seam allowances.

Take a sheet of paper larger than the half-circumference of the hips (HH) by 10 cm and longer than the measurement Length. by 10 cm (i.e. 58 cm by 60 cm).

Stepping back 5 cm from the top edge, place point A and draw a line from it perpendicular to the side edge.

We write on the line - the waist line.

Set aside 18 cm from the waist line along the side edge and place point B.

We write on the line - the line of the hips.

From the waist line along the side edge we set aside the length of the skirt (Length Yu.) - 50 cm and put a point H.

We draw a line from it perpendicular to the side edge.

We write on the line - the bottom line.

From point A, we plot the half-circumference of the hips (HH) along the waist line - 48 cm and place point A1.

Draw a perpendicular down to the waist line and place points on the hip line - point B1, on the bottom line - point H1.

From point A we set aside the circumference of the hips (H) - 24 cm and place point A2.

Draw a perpendicular down to the waist line and place points on the hip line - point B2, on the bottom line - point H2.

We sign the constructed lines:

Line AN - middle front,

Line A1H1 – middle of the back,

Line A2H2 – side.

Side groove.

From point A2 along the waist line, set aside 3 cm to the left and right and place points A3 and A4. We connect them to point B2.

In the middle of each line A3B2 and A4B2 we draw a 5 mm perpendicular to the side and a smooth curved line.

Front undercut.

From point A along the waist line, measure 10 cm and place point A5. We lower the perpendicular to the line of the hips and mark 10 cm on this line. Place point B3.

From point A5 to the left and right we measure 1 cm and put points A6 and A7.

We connect these longings with point B3.

Rear undercut.

From point A1 we put 10 cm along the waist line and put point A8, from which we lower the perpendicular to the line of the hips and measure 15 cm on it. We put point B4.

We calculate our individual back groove using the formula:

Half hip circumference (HH) minus half waist circumference (SW) minus front dart (2 cm) minus side dart (6 cm) equals

POB (48 cm)-POT (35 cm)-2 cm-6 cm=5 cm

(If the back dart is more than 5.5 cm, then we make two identical back darts, i.e. we divide the total amount of the back dart by 2. For example: POB (49 cm) - POT (35 cm) - 2 cm - 6 cm =6 cm. Now 6/2=3 cm. This means that the first back groove is located, as written above, with a total of 3 cm, the second will be located in the middle between points A9 and A4 - the construction is exactly the same as the first. )

This number means the total amount of the back groove, so we divide it in half (5/2 = 2.5 cm).

From point A8 we put 2.5 cm along the waist line to the left and right and put points A9 and A10.

We connect these points with point B4.

We outline our pattern with a thick line, as shown in Fig. 5, and cut out the pattern along this line.

Glue on the sides of our pattern along a wide strip from the waist line to the bottom line.

We add 1 cm of freedom of fit along the hips on each side, because CO = 4 cm in total girth, and we have a drawing of a skirt with half girths.

We draw a straight line from the hip line and along the bottom line, which smoothly transitions to the waist line without any allowance for loose fitting (CO).

We sign along the line of the middle of the front and back - lobar thread.

We trace our new pattern and cut it out.

This is a ready-made skirt pattern for construction on fabric, but without seam allowances.

Skirt cut.

Before cutting, the fabric must be decated and ironed with a hot iron, to see if there is any defect in the fabric in order to get around it when cutting.

Laying out fabric for cutting

First of all, when cutting fabric, it is necessary to focus on the direction of the grain and weft threads, since the fabric stretches differently in the direction of the warp and the direction of the weft. ( The basis- threads running along the edge of the fabric. Hence their other names - “ lobar threads" or " main threads". Ducks- threads running across the edge of the fabric. Their other name is “ weft threads".)

If the parts are placed incorrectly when cutting, the product will quickly lose its shape or turn out skewed (if not immediately, then after washing).

Usually we fold the fabric for cutting in half with the right side inward, aligning the edges.

This option is suitable for cutting a product in which all the parts are paired (two shelves, two backs, two sleeves, etc.), or for cutting a product in which some of the parts are paired, and the other part has a fold in the middle line. For example: the back is made of two parts, and the front is a whole part with a fold. In this case, we lay out the parts as follows: the back pattern is to the edges, and the middle of the front is to the fold of the fabric.

If both the back and the front are whole parts with a fold in the middle, then it is better to lay the fabric with two folds, as shown in the figure.

We lay the back pattern with the middle line to one fold, and the front pattern with the middle line to the other fold.
This layout method is also used for skirts if the front and back panels of the skirt do not have seams.

Among modern fabrics there are those that stretch well on the warp and poorly on the weft. In this case, we perform the layout of the patterns in reverse, i.e. The direction of the warp thread on the patterns should lie along the weft thread of the fabric

If you are translating patterns from magazines, then do not forget to translate the arrows indicating the direction of the warp threads (lobe threads).

We lay out our skirt pattern according to Figure 10, pin it along the perimeter of the parts.

We outline our skirt pattern with fine tailor's chalk.

A dull edge of a crayon can be “sharpened” with a knife.

We mark the allowances around the pattern pieces using a ruler and tailor's chalk: at the top - 1 cm, on the sides - 2 cm, at the bottom - 4 cm, in the center of the back - 2 cm.

And again we outline with thin chalk.

At the bottom of the fabric we draw a belt along the fold with chalk: length - POTS + 10 cm, and width - 8 cm. We draw the same detail (belt) on the non-woven fabric.

Let's cut out our parts.

Sewing a skirt.

We transfer the outline of the parts to another layer of fabric using copy stitches (snatch), i.e. on a paired part or on the symmetrical side of a solid part (parts with a bend). These are the same running stitches, but when laying them, the threads do not tighten, but form small loops 1-1.5 cm high. The length of the stitch in the loop is 3-5 mm, the distance between the stitches is up to 1 cm.

After laying stitches around the perimeter and inside the part, we move the cut apart, stretch the snares and cut the threads. As a result, the outline of the pattern is obtained on both identical parts (or symmetrical sides) at once. We trace it along the wrong side with thin chalk.

Before the first fitting, we connect the skirt parts with running stitches.

To process a recess, fold the corresponding part with the front side inward along the center line of the recesses so that its sides are aligned. To avoid shifting layers of fabric during processing, we cut off the undercut with several pins, placing them perpendicular to the basting line. In order not to stretch the fabric, we baste the sides from the cuts of the part towards the top of the dart.

We iron the darts on the front half of the skirt to the center of the front, and the darts on the back half to the center of the back.

Baste the side seams and the back seam until the snake is positioned.

First fitting.

We put the sour cream product on the figure and secure the clasp with pins. By external inspection we determine the correctness of its overall fit. Then we proceed to the necessary clarifications and corrections in accordance with the figure.

First of all, we check the position of the side seams, the direction and length of the undercuts, and the length of the product.

If the product turns out to be too big, then we take the excess fabric into the seam. If it’s not enough, we rip out the basting lines on the sides and release the fabric.

Glue the interlining onto the belt piece with a hot iron and iron the belt in the middle along its length.

We attach the belt to the skirt. We pin it with a pin. We mark with chalk the connection of the belt along the pin, on the skirt we draw the edge of the belt along the waist circumference as it fits on this figure.

Unfasten the belt and remove the product.

We clarify the defects of the skirt, i.e. we remove (and trim excess fabric) or release fabric reserves.

Once again we put the skirt on the figure, performing the second fitting. If there are any other defects, we will remove them again.

Then we process the seam sections with a zigzag stitch or overlock.

We sew the side seams, press them onto the back or press them.

Sewing a zipper into the back seam of the skirt.

Place the zipper at the top of the back seam of the skirt and mark with chalk where the bottom zipper lock is located.

Use small stitches to sweep the top of the seam up to the mark, then use a sewing machine to sew to the mark where the cut of the skirt begins.

Iron the seam. Unzip the zipper and place it on the seam on the wrong side of the skirt so that the edge of the seam coincides with the edge of the teeth. We pin this side of the zipper to the skirt, capturing all three layers. Fasten the zipper and pin the other side of the zipper to the skirt. Place small running stitches on both sides of the zipper. We remove the pins. Using a sewing machine, we sew a line along the front side of the skirt to the width of the foot (about 5 mm) from the zipper teeth from top to bottom, turn it behind the clasp - sew 1 cm, turn the product and sew it back from bottom to top along the seam.

Remove the running stitches and iron the zipper.

We cut off the skirt, matching the top of the product, from the middle of the front to the middle of the back. Unfasten the zipper.

From the chalk line drawn where the belt will be sewn, mark 1 cm per seam. Cut off excess fabric. We secure the grooves and seams with tacks so that they do not come apart.

We mark with a notch the middle of the front and the middle of the waistband. We place the prepared belt with the front side on the front side of the skirt. Having aligned the cuts, we connect the notches, pin them, and baste them from the side of the skirt with a slight fit of the latter.

We turn the belt in the middle with the front side facing inward. We sew the edges of the belt, folding the lower edges, retreating 2 cm on each side from the zipper. We process the edge of the belt that is not attached to the skirt with an overlocker. Turn the belt right side out to wrong side. We connect the curved edges inward and pin them together.

After this, we bend one edge of the waistband, overlap it with the other edge, sew it together and machine stitch along the waistband of the front side of the skirt with an overstitch seam 1 mm from the edge of the stitching.

We bend the bottom of the product and the slit (first the bottom of the skirt, and then the slit), overlapping the lower edge of the skirt. Apply running stitches. We iron the edge of the skirt and make cross stitches from left to right, and make needle punctures from right to left, alternating them along the main fabric and along the folded edge. In this case, the stitches should not be noticeable from the front side. The main fabric is not pierced through, but only by capturing half of its thickness. Stitch length is 5-7 mm.

Final wet-heat treatment

We clean the product from industrial waste (chalk, thread, etc.). Turn the skirt inside out. Iron the belt without stretching its upper edge. We iron the zipper through the ironing iron. Iron each side of the cut together. Iron the entire fabric of the product well. The product cools down for 15-20 minutes.

Cut a loop on the upper (front) part of the belt. From the edge of the belt, the loop is located at a distance of 0.5 - 1 cm exactly in the middle of the belt. Sew a button on the lower left side of the belt. The location of the button should be marked with the zipper closed.

Thank you for your attention.